Short answer: retinol has substantially more evidence behind it for visible changes in fine lines and texture, but commonly causes dryness, flaking and irritation in the first weeks and is conventionally avoided during pregnancy. Bakuchiol is a plant-derived alternative that most people tolerate easily, with a much smaller research base and generally milder results. If your skin reacts to everything, or you are pregnant or breastfeeding, bakuchiol is the sensible starting point โ confirm with your midwife or doctor.
What retinol actually is
Retinol is a form of vitamin A. Applied to skin, it is converted into retinoic acid, which increases cell turnover and influences collagen production. It is among the most-studied ingredients in cosmetic skincare, with decades of research behind prescription-strength retinoids in particular.
The trade-off is the adjustment period, often called retinisation: dryness, flaking, tightness and sometimes a temporary worsening of blemishes for two to six weeks. This is expected rather than a sign it is not working, but it is also why many people abandon retinol in week three.
Retinol also increases photosensitivity, which is why it is used at night and why daily sunscreen is not optional alongside it.
What bakuchiol actually is
Bakuchiol is extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia. It is not a vitamin A derivative and works through different pathways, but appears to produce some comparable effects on skin appearance.
The often-cited 2019 comparison study found bakuchiol and retinol produced similar improvements in pigmentation and wrinkle appearance over twelve weeks, with bakuchiol causing less scaling and stinging. That is genuinely encouraging โ but it was one study with a small number of participants, and the overall bakuchiol literature is a fraction of the size of retinol's. Treat "just as effective" claims with appropriate scepticism.
Choosing between them
Choose retinol if your skin tolerates actives reasonably well, you want the best-evidenced option for fine lines and texture, and you are willing to introduce it slowly and commit to daily sunscreen.
Choose bakuchiol if your skin is reactive, rosacea-prone or easily irritated; you have tried retinol and could not get past the adjustment period; you are pregnant or breastfeeding; or you want an active that layers easily without a careful schedule.
You can also use both โ bakuchiol on nights you are not using retinol is a common pattern for building tolerance.
How to introduce retinol without wrecking your skin barrier
- Start twice a week, not nightly.
- Apply to dry skin after cleansing, a pea-sized amount for the whole face.
- Buffer if needed โ moisturiser first, then retinol, then moisturiser again.
- Avoid the immediate eye area and the corners of the nose and mouth, where skin is thinnest.
- Do not use exfoliating acids the same night. Alternate.
- Sunscreen every morning, without exception.
- Build to every other night, then nightly, over six to eight weeks.
If you are flaking badly, you are going too fast. Drop back a step rather than stopping altogether.
Pregnancy and breastfeeding
Topical retinoids are conventionally avoided during pregnancy. Oral high-dose vitamin A is the clearly established risk; topical absorption is low, so the caution around cosmetic retinol is precautionary rather than proven. Standard advice is still to avoid it, and bakuchiol is the usual substitute.
Do confirm with your own midwife or doctor rather than relying on a shop page โ including for bakuchiol, whose pregnancy safety data is limited simply because it is newer.
What we stock
- Bakuchiol โ INIKA Organic Bakuchiol Serum 30 ml, in our serum collection.
- Retinol โ Vichy Liftactiv Specialist Retinol Serum 30 ml, and Suntribe Natural Night Cream with hyaluronic acid, retinol and niacinamide.
- Gentler alternatives โ if both feel like too much, niacinamide and vitamin C serums are worth considering first. Vichy Liftactiv Specialist B3 Serum and INIKA Kakadu Plum Vitamin C Booster are both in our skincare range.
- Sunscreen โ non-negotiable with either. See sunscreen.
The honest summary
Neither ingredient will do what a good night's sleep, not smoking and daily sunscreen do for skin over a decade. Within cosmetic skincare, retinol is the better-evidenced choice and bakuchiol is the better-tolerated one. Pick based on how your skin behaves rather than which is currently more fashionable โ and give either at least twelve weeks before judging it.
These are cosmetic skincare products and results vary between individuals. For external use only. Patch test before first use, avoid direct contact with the eyes, and stop use if irritation occurs. Seek advice from a healthcare professional during pregnancy or breastfeeding, or if you have a diagnosed skin condition.
